Blouse toile

 Here is how I made the toile for my white blouse

 

To create my blouse I traced around the bodice block and sleeve block.

 



 

For the front block I moved the shoulder dart to the bust using the block as a guide.

I also added a button stand of 3cm and added that twice, I then added 1cm either side of the centre front seam.

 I then added 1cm SA and cut this out.

 

 

to the back I removed the shoulder dart by taking the same measurement of the dart off the side. I also extended this a little to about 45cm from the shoulder.

 

I then drew in the yoke line and drew an even curve to the top bust line, I also left  1cm by the arm whole so it was easier to attach to the yoke

 

I also extended the length to about 55cm from the shoulder line.

 

For the sleeve I divided this evenly into 6 sections and slashed and spread however I measured a comfortable measurement around the wrist and taped the sleeve edge to this measurement.

For the cuff I took the wrist measurement and created a rectangle about 5cm wide and added a 4cm button stand. I then added a 1cm SA and cut this out.

 

 For the collar I measured one side of the back section of the neck on a mannequin and Drew a deep line this distance, I then measured one half of the front and marked this on. I then measured how wide I wanted my collar and then drew a rectangle I then lifted the top corner and adjusted my point, I also lifted the bottom edge and drew a cut on the fold at the centre back.

 

 

Next I drew a 1cm SA and cut this out.

 

Next I pinned my pattern pieces down and cut them out of my fabric.

 

I then sewed bias binding to the curve on the back.

I then sandwiched the back piece in between the yoke pieces.

 



 

I then folded the button stand over 3 times according to my notches and top stitched them down.

 

 

Next I sewed the front and back together at the shoulder so that the seams were tucked in together, to do this i made sure the front was sandwiched in between the yokes, i then turned this out and top stitched.

 

next I attached the sleeve to the shoulders and then sewed down the side seam from the top of the sleeve to the hem, however I left about 3cm at the bottom of the hem as I wanted a step hem and a small slit at the seam, I then repeated this on the other side.

 

 

I then sewed the collar pieces together, cut off the corners and bagged it out.

 

I then sewed in a notch to attach the collar and sewed one side of the collar to the neck like.

 



 

I then folded the other side over and folded the seam up so it was hidden.

 

I then top stitched so the seam was hidden.

 



 

I then repeated this step with my cuffs however I made sure they were facing opposite ways.

 

 

After I sewed them I realised that The button stand were facing the wrong way, I will sew these the opposite way on my final.

 

Thanks for reading!!

 

Jenny xxx



Ice Cream Shirt toile

 

Here I am going to create the toile for my Ice Cream shirt, hope you enjoy learning!

 To create my ice cream shirt I started by draping on the stand to try and create my shape.

Using a lingerie guide I drew around two bodice blocks and drew a line, to be my new neck line, roughly around the middle of the arm whole.

 

I then doubled the size of the top dart of the front bodice block, and wrote the centre front as cut on fold. Then I traced this onto a new sheet and added a 1cm seam allowance, and cut these out.

 

 

 

 I then sewed the darts together and sewed the back pieces too the front leaving the centre back seam open.

Next I tried this on the mannequin and fitted it appropriately.

 

 

 After I had fitted my bodice I took the measurements and took this off of my patterns

 

 

I then put the bodice back on the mannequin and pinned a piece of fabric to the top, then I drew the ice cream whip shape that I wanted and took it off the mannequin

 

I then cut this out and tacked it to the bodice to ensure it fit right, then I unpicked it so I could draw around the shape to create a pattern piece with a 0.5cm seam allowance as there are small curves, and then re-sewed on properly.

 

 

After this I pinned the bodice onto the mannequin and draped another piece on top to create my ice cream shape.

 

 

 

After i had created the shape I wanted I took the piece off the stand and drew around it to create a pattern adding a 1cm seam allowance.

 

Then I took the piece and sewed it on to my bodice sewing he neck line and curve first right sides together .

 

 

I then sewed each side of  the bottom hem and then sewed the point that sticks out, and flipped inside out

here I realised that i had sewn the left hem wrong and that I had to sew it higher up and not on the hem.

 

Once inside out I sewed the sides down

 

I then pinned a line in the centre to create more shape and to create a division. And then sewed this down.

 

And here is my final toile.

 

 

Thanks for reading!!

 

Jenny xxx