Sunday, 16 June 2013

Pacman skirt toile

Here I'm creating the toile for my Pacman skirt hope you enjoy learning!
 
First I started by drawing a horizontal line the length of my waist measurement, I then drew a vertical line the length that I wanted my skirt to be, and created a rectangle using these measurements. I then split the rectangle in half both ways, and divided the vertical line into 10 even sections



At each other line I drew curved darts and a curved seam at each side, this will create the ball shape I require at the top of my skirt to create my pacman skirt.
 

 
At the hem I drew the same shape as a pacman ghost's feet making sure the curves were an even distance away from each other.


One I finished drawing out the shape I traced over this adding a 1cm seam allowance and cut it out.

 
I then pinned this to my fabric and cut it out.


 
Next I created a template for my darts to ensure I sewed the dart in the right shape.And then sewed all of the darts together.




 
Next I sewed one side together and pined the other whilst i tried it on my friend as she had a dress on with a netted underskirt, and this helped me to decide weather or not the shape was right.



Next I sewed the other side half way up leaving room for a zip
 

 
I then created the waist band by drawing a rectangle 8cm long (to be folded down) and half of my waist measurement wide as I will cut this on the fold. I then added a 4cm button stand and a 1cm seam allowance and cut this out of my fabric.
 
Here I put a notch for the button stand.

I then decided that I didn't want the button stand and took that off and left enough for a 1cm SA

 
I then drew an interfacing for the waist band using only one half of the original. 




Next I sewed the waist band to the skirt wrong sides together on one half of the band 

 
I then folded over and top stitched so the seam was hidden. 


For the edge of the waist I sewed as close as the zip as possible and cut the corner off so the point would be sharper. 

 
Next I traced part of the hem and drew a 4cm SA to create my binding pattern, then added a 1cm SA and cut this out.
 
 
here I sewed one edge of the binding to the skirt hem.

 
I then cut notches in the curves so it would create a better curve when folded over.


I then ironed over 1cm of the top of the binding  and sewed this down.
 



 
For the Eyes I drew a shape for the white part and one for the pupil and then added a 1cm SA


 
Thanks for reading!!
 
Jenny xxx
 


Blouse toile

 Here is how I made the toile for my white blouse
 

To create my blouse I traced around the bodice block and sleeve block.
 

 
For the front block I moved the shoulder dart to the bust using the block as a guide.
I also added a button stand of 3cm and added that twice, I then added 1cm either side of the centre front seam.

 I then added 1cm SA and cut this out.
 
 
to the back I removed the shoulder dart by taking the same measurement of the dart off the side. I also extended this a little to about 45cm from the shoulder.

 
I then drew in the yoke line and drew an even curve to the top bust line, I also left  1cm by the arm whole so it was easier to attach to the yoke

 
I also extended the length to about 55cm from the shoulder line.


 
For the sleeve I divided this evenly into 6 sections and slashed and spread however I measured a comfortable measurement around the wrist and taped the sleeve edge to this measurement.





For the cuff I took the wrist measurement and created a rectangle about 5cm wide and added a 4cm button stand. I then added a 1cm SA and cut this out.
 

 For the collar I measured one side of the back section of the neck on a mannequin and Drew a deep line this distance, I then measured one half of the front and marked this on. I then measured how wide I wanted my collar and then drew a rectangle I then lifted the top corner and adjusted my point, I also lifted the bottom edge and drew a cut on the fold at the centre back.
 
 
Next I drew a 1cm SA and cut this out.


 
Next I pinned my pattern pieces down and cut them out of my fabric.

 
I then sewed bias binding to the curve on the back.


I then sandwiched the back piece in between the yoke pieces.
 

 
I then folded the button stand over 3 times according to my notches and top stitched them down.
 
 
Next I sewed the front and back together at the shoulder so that the seams were tucked in together, to do this i made sure the front was sandwiched in between the yokes, i then turned this out and top stitched.

 
next I attached the sleeve to the shoulders and then sewed down the side seam from the top of the sleeve to the hem, however I left about 3cm at the bottom of the hem as I wanted a step hem and a small slit at the seam, I then repeated this on the other side.
 
 
I then sewed the collar pieces together, cut off the corners and bagged it out.
 

I then sewed in a notch to attach the collar and sewed one side of the collar to the neck like.
 


 
I then folded the other side over and folded the seam up so it was hidden.
 

I then top stitched so the seam was hidden.
 

 
I then repeated this step with my cuffs however I made sure they were facing opposite ways.
 

 
After I sewed them I realised that The button stand were facing the wrong way, I will sew these the opposite way on my final.
 
Thanks for reading!!
 
Jenny xxx

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